The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.

It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.

"I've seen individuals concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Across the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from construction by creating permanent, productive farming plots inside urban environments," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those produced in cities are a product of the soils the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, landscape and history of a city," adds the president.

Mystery Polish Variety

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten berries from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol

The other members of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an old way of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the liquid," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Conditions and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

William Williams
William Williams

Cybersecurity specialist with over a decade of experience in data protection and cloud infrastructure.